Often referred to "Lego for adults", you'll soon find out that similar to Lego, the best way to start is with the basic building blocks and add accessories and additions until you achieve the desired end-product. So now we have something like this: There are other scales of course try searching for Z gauge or LGB but since this is a site for new railway modellers we're going to assume you're using OO as it's the most popular scale.
So if we keep in mind the need to make the layout 'work', by simply switching the points around we have a much better setup. It's perfectly possible to reproduce a modern scene on a shelf layout, but as the size of the layout decreases there's little doubt that the suitability of the site for this purpose becomes less, whereas a 'believable' steam era layout can be constructed on virtually any size.
Perhaps one of the best schemes is to stay with the fiddleyard behind a backscene and instead of including some sidings in front of it have another station instead.
This has the twin advantages of looking more presentable while allowing for some additional modelling to take place in front of the fiddleyard. So now that we have some basic dimensions we can start to think about how to plan out the various elements we want. Before we leave terminus-to-fiddleyard design behind and take a quick look at larger shelf layouts I just want to mention a few related points.
Buy T-Slot Aluminum Extrusion Now To purchase products immediately, check out our Web Store for a selection of products, or contact us directly at sales cpiautomation. Note how we've now got two sidings in the fiddleyard and it's grown slightly in size because now we have a point.
Essentially it gives our trains somewhere to go when they leave the model world we have created. Just before we examine them I should take a small detour here to cover two quick issues.
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The disadvantage apart from the added operating complication is that it eats into the overall width of the layout - if you've a narrow site for the layout it's not the best choice. When you are just starting out, there are two profiles in particular you should try to stick to.
So that means you need to keep the platform road, the siding in front of the fiddleyard and the lower side of the runaround loop all free in order to get just a single wagon into the siding marked A. Available in metric and imperial profiles. Once you have chosen the "Series" of your profile, you still need to narrow down to a specific profile.
Both of these are currently available in OO and N gauge. It is perfectly acceptable to include several profiles within the same series in the same construction.
Another little tip is to avoid the use of brake vans.
And we no longer have to stick to just a single track — double track now becomes a possibility, allowing simultaneous operation of more than one train and by more than one operator. However, there's little doubt that even in the home an open fiddleyard can be unattractive and perhaps more disappointingly take the viewer's eye away from the modelled part of the layout.
Now in front of the fiddleyard we have a big space that we can utilise for some interesting freight workings, so I'm going to place a couple of sidings. But a larger space does open up all sorts of possibilities.
It's this terminus-to-fiddleyard concept that we will be chiefly looking at here.
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A modern Class 66 pulling three wagons can look a little odd as the loco is as long as the train, whereas a small steam tank locomotive pulling the same train looks perfectly acceptable single slot shelf standard if it is more a reproduction of 'how we remember it' rather than 'how it actually was'! So bearing in mind the issues of accessibility and presentation, the first basic design is to simply have the fiddleyard at one end of the layout, as this allows for easy access for any 'fiddling' and there's a very clear definition between the scenic and 'off-stage' areas.
So what I'm going to do here is to show an example of the second type with the fiddleyard hidden behind a backscene so that we can examine some of the development of a layout. Black or clear anodized available. So if you are looking for short lead times, choosing 10 series or 15 series will help you out when you are in a bind.
Straying into metric profiles is perfectly fine; however, you should be aware that some accessories that you may have had your heart set on at the onset may not be available. Within each profile series, you can choose from a few different styles which provide different weight and appearance characteristics.
At half the size of OO gauge however a N gauge layout takes up much less room, so if you're really tight for space I would recommend a look at N gauge as you can fit an amazing amount of layout into a very small space, but the size of the models means the scale is single slot shelf standard best suited to younger modellers.
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Within each profile series, you can get extrusions of different cross sectional dimensions. To make a joint ready for an end fastener, the first thing you need to do is end tap one profile end. I'm also going to hide the fiddleyard behind a backscene essentially a piece of wood or stiff card so it's out of sight.